The Intermediate Climbing Class of the Washington Alpine Club offers
lead rock and ice climbing experience that builds on the mountaineering
skills taught in the Basic Class. This course focuses on teaching the
skills necessary to become competent climbing partners in technical
rock, ice, and alpine environments and develop familiarity with leading
in these environments. The class format follows that of the Basic
Climbing Class. i.e. classroom sessions followed by field trips. Class
size remains small to preserve a one to one, instructor to student
ratio.
2009 Applicants' Information
APPLICATIONS ARE NOW AVAILABLE
Applications will be accepted until July 15th, 2009
This class requires a moderate time commitment and solid physical conditioning.
One of the best ways to get a feel for what to expect from the class
is to talk to people who participated in the prior classes. If you do
not know anyone, please feel free to contact one of the cochairs below.
Cost
You may elect to sign up for an individual module (i.e. lead rock, lead ice, self rescue and alpine climbing) for $60 per module. Or if you sign up for the entire course, the cost is $180. Those who sign up for the entire course will be given first priority. This cost does not cover personal climbing gear. The textbooks will be provided as part of the course. Ropes and rock protection equipment are provided by the club. This fee will be refunded if you do not get into the class. If you are not a WAC member, you will need to fill out the membership application and pay a $30 membership fee and $15 initiation fee (both non-refundable).
Time Commitment
The course begins Tuesday, August 25th and concludes Sunday, September 27th. Classroom sessions are held on Tuesday evenings and followed by weekend-long field trips. All classroom sessions will be held at Pat O'Brien's house located at 6548 39th Ave. NE, Seattle. The class sessions run for 2 1/2 hours and the field trips extend for the entire weekend (see the schedule below for details). First preference will be given to those who sign up for the entire course. Thereafter, any remaining spots will be assigned until the particular course module is full.
Physical Conditioning
You must be prepared to exert yourself in physically challenging situations when the course begins. You will be doing a large amount of technical rock and ice climbing and maneuvering over varying snow and ice terrain. The best way to get in shape for the course is to hike a lot with a pack and do a lot of rock and/or mountaineering. The more physically fit you are, the more fun you will have.
Required Experience
It is expected that applicants for the Intermediate Climbing Class will have an experience level roughly equivalent to that gained from the Basic Climbing Class. With respect to rock, this includes experience with rock climbing, some familiarity with traditional rock anchors, and the ability to belay safely. With respect to ice and snow, this includes familiarity with moving on varying terrain angles with crampons on, use of an ice axe and the ability to self arrest a fall.
Equipment
Participants will be expected to have all the required equipment to climb safely in the mountains. In addition to the Basic Climbing Class's equipment list, the following will be needed for each module.
Lead Rock Module
- medium climbing rack, pro and slings (recommended)
Self Rescue Module
- 2 cordalettes (required)
- 2 rescue pulleys (required)
Ice Climbing Module
- 2 22cm ice screws (required)
- 2 technical ice tools (recommended)
Reality Check
We work hard at maintaining a high teacher to student ratio. All of the instructors are volunteers and members of the WAC. We try to create an enjoyable environment to learn in, but the student must be aware that climbing is an inherently dangerous activity. While the class teaches methods to reduce that risk, there remains the possibility of injury or death while participating in any climbing related activity.
The Good Stuff
Even considering - and perhaps because of - the commitments described above, the course can be a tremendously gratifying experience. Overcoming the challenges climbing has to offer brings a feeling of personal accomplishment that few sports can equal, while at the same time creating a special kind of camaraderie that comes with shared adventure. Many valued friendships and climbing partnerships have come from participation in the class; and there is, of course, the incomparable beauty of the alpine high country into which our pursuit takes us.
Admission Procedure
Due to the nature of the skills taught in the Intermediate Class it is necessary for a very close interaction between head instructors and students to exist. Therefore, to maintain the highest enjoyment to safety ratio possible, and to allow you to get the most out of the class, we must limit each module size to eight (8) students. Unfortunately, limiting class size means we have the unpleasant task of turning away some applicants. Applicants must have completed the Basic Climbing Class or have equivalent climbing experience, and must show a committment to increasing and refining their climbing skills in the form of continued participation outside of the Basic Class.
The application is available between June 15th and July 15th 2009. You will be notified of your status by August 1st, 2009. Checks will be returned to those who did not make it into the class.
We're very excited about the opportunity to offer the Intermediate Climbing Class and trust that this process will ensure that everyone has a fair chance to participate. If you have any questions, please contact the Intermediate Climbing Class Chairs.
Contact
We're very excited about the opportunity to offer the Intermediate Climbing Class and trust that this process will ensure that everyone has a fair chance to participate. If you have any questions, please contact the Intermediate Climbing Class Chairs:
What the Class Teaches
The course covers the basics for climbing and mountaineering technical terrain safely in the Pacific Northwest. You are taught to be a responsible, competent partner on a climb. Below is a short list of topics that are touched upon in the Intermediate Climbing Class.
Self Rescue
Textbook: Climbing Self-Rescue by Andy Tyson and Molly Loomis
- 6 steps of self-rescue
- Knots used in a self-rescue
- Escaping the belay
- Ascending to an injured climber
- Rappelling with an injured climber
Rock Climbing
Textbooks: Freedom of the Hills (chapters 9-11), More Climbing Anchors by John Long
- How to build rock climbing anchors
- How to place active and passive rock climbing protection while leading
- Belaying a lead climber
- Multi-pitch techniques (changing over belays, simul-climbing, etc.)
Ice Climbing
Textbooks: How to Ice Climb by Craig Luebben (chapters 1-2, 4, 6-8), Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue by Andy Selters
- How to walk on moderate angle ice (French technique)
- Building ice anchors
- Ice climbing techniques
- Placing ice screws while leading
- Crevasse rescue
- Glacier travel (i.e. 2-person rope teams)
- Snow anchors
Alpine Climbing
- Organizing and researching for an alpine climb
- Packing with lightweight techniques
- Route finding and moving efficiently on snow and rock
- Applying leading skills in the alpine environment
- Problem solving
Schedule
Classroom Sessions:
Location: 6548
39th Ave. NE, Seattle.
Tuesday Aug 25th - 7-9pm
Tuesday Sept 8th - 7-9:30pm
Tuesday Sept 15th - 7-9:30pm
Tuesday Sept 22nd - 7-9pm
Field Trips:
All field trips are all day both days including overnight, Lead Ice is 3 days.
| Trip | Location |
|---|---|
| Lead Ice / Aug 28-30 OFF WEEKEND / Sept 5-6 | Coleman Glacier, Mt. Baker NO CLASS |
| Lead Rock / Sept 12-13 | Leavenworth |
| Self Rescue / Sept 19-20 | Leavenworth |
| Alpine & Rock 2/ Sept 26-27 | Tieton River Canyon |
| Backup weekend / Oct 3-4 | TBD |